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Off Schedule: Day One

Sunday's Off Schedule offerings for the S/S 09 season got off to a decidedly sunny start, undoubtedly helped by the surprisingly warm climes outside, with the Spijkers en Spijkers show at the Vauxhall Fashion Scout venue. Tangerine lips and St Tropez tans successfully transported the audience to an early 70s summer where cropped leopard print tops and matching hot pants evoked a post Stepford Wives era. Langourous chiffon and organza dresses in girly pastel shades that made an appearance at the beginning of the show, were replaced by metallic ruffles and pleated collars typifying the Dutch label's take on contemporary femininity. Meanwhile, the lace trend championed by Prada last season was continued by Spijkers in the form of black lace catsuits and barely there nude lace playsuits. All in all a Spijkers en Spijkers summer is one to look forward to.

The afternoon welcomed a show from a New Gen triumvirate compiled of young talent Poltock and Walsh, Krystof Stozyna and Emilio de la Morena. Poltock and Walsh opened proceedings with their high waisted, thigh skimming silk cullottes partnered with billowing chiffon blouses. Sage green ruffled skirts and corsages stayed true to the ethereal feminine charm Poltock and Walsh are becoming known for, and although oversized necklaces, (not dissimilar to new kid on the block Mary Katrantzou's designs) added interest to this highly wearable collection, I couldn't help but feel a little underwhelmed by the whole affair.
Krystof Strozyna continued the favouring of netural pastel shades with a cream, taupe and mushroom palette dominating his collection while moments of colour relief came in the form of a bright turquoise blue. Elegant, subtly structured calf length dresses were undoubtedly the highlight of the show, while tasselled skirts and stiff organza smock dresses left a bewildering aftertaste to the collection.
Emilio de la Morena's moment on the catwalk was well worth the wait, with intricate tailoring and deconstructed dresses achieving accessibility without playing it too safe. Morena's signature draping was used to great effect while a navy blue cage-like structure over an otherwise simply body con dress was a personal favourite.

Olivia Marks