by Alexander Fury .


Primitivism and Futurism seem two overriding influences on the collections so far and although Issey Miyake have always pitched their tent in the latter category, this season they went tribal. If Westwood printed her garments with the estimated $30 billion it will take to save the world's rainforests (plus a few noughts extra for added impact), the design team at Issey Miyake went one further, sourcing the colour hues for their fabrics direct from the jungles of Brazil. Shown beneath a fringed canopy imitating lush foliage, the collection focussed on workwear not too dissimilar to the paddy-workers garb Miyake proffered as a trademark staple in the eighties. Some of the cocooned plisse shapes and organza A-line dresses with floating panels also recalled Romeo Gigli in that same era, both he and Miyake a world away from the hard-edged vixens that stalked the runways of Mugler and Montana. The show, however, lacked a certain energy -the colours may have been painstakingly sourced but on the whole were drab and uninspiring, and coupled with familiar shapes, it was difficult to get excited, for all the work the Miyake team evidently put into it.