by Penny Martin .

The Politics of Ornamentation

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Stefano Pilati was assiduous about how he intended tonight's extremely restrained A/W collection to be understood. A detailed memo issued to members of the press explained that the roomy, architectonic forms comprising 'work in black' focused on "aesceticism". Now, that's not a word used in Fashion very often. I am thoroughly intrigued to imagine how Pilati's research into how 'clothing and bodies move together' brought him to the Aescetic Movement (who believed -in the late nineteenth century- that denial of comfort and pleasure would bring moral purity and so slept on wooden boards and wore hair shirts). It may have been a typo in the notes, but it's a wonderful thought! ...The big revolution in the clothes was the abandonment of ornamentation, save for some beautiful silver patterns woven into the knitwear, or a pattern of Paris, which apparently featured in the weave of a coat. In comparison with the prints and embellishment of S/S, all focus was on fabrics and cut, most notably on 'double layer constructions', where the inner shell gripped the body, whilst the outer cocoon stood proud of the body. This development is political as well as aesthetic, apparently. Seeing it as a contemporary take on luxury's role in society, Pilati intends his clothes NOT to contrast against surrounding poverty and intends his forays into faux fabrics to mark ostentation as 'outdated'.

1 comment

  1. GalileosUniverse
    07:20 3 Mar 2007
    .....'aesceticism'..... characterized by or suggesting the practice of severe self-discipline and abstention from all forms of indulgence, typically for.... religious reasons : an ascetic life of prayer, fasting, and manual labor | a narrow, humorless, ascetic face. See note at severe .......
    ....a totally and very disturbing word..... if it is also trying to !!!