The Coach 1941 set for A/W 17 looked a little like the one designer Stuart Vevers created for the brand's first runway show some time ago. Like before, there were tumbleweeds and fields of grass. But this time, the fields were dying. These models weren't walking through a nourished prairie, but through the rough mid-American Great Plains.
For A/W 17, Vevers looked to Terrence Malick’s Badlands for inspiration. A story of a young girl on the run with her killer boyfriend in South Dakota. You could see Malick’s dark vision not just in the elaborate set, but in the sweet bird and flower embellished prairie dresses (a nod to Sissy Spacek's Holly) and the earthy, time-forgotten palette.
Plaid was a theme, appearing on cotton midi-skirts, classic button-downs, and seventies style-cut trousers for men. A brown camo skirt, hitting just below the knee, featured prints of running horses. As usual, coating was the standout. See: the soft, shearling lined tan leather jackets for women and black fur-collared mud leather options for men. Leather biker jackets featured playful floral embellishment and oversized zippers.
There were hints of Martin Sheen’s Kit in the men’s silhouettes, and a certain naivety in the styles for women.
As we’ve come to expect from Vevers, this was a collection steeped in nostalgia for an America of yesteryear. The irony of course is that the America portrayed here begins and ends with poverty and violence. Dried up land and a young couple, killing on the run. These clothes are highly wearable today - especially those shearling coats - but perhaps there is a political message to be had yet. When you’re romanticizing a vision of the past, be careful what you wish for.