'Squaring' off its attempt to deliver a dual collection of both menswear and womenswear pieces, Dean and Dan Caten's strategy is a kind of organised mish-mash affair. Not only that, it has an almost wild take on campery and lust. The pounding soundtrack extolled the advice: 'See sex without shame! See lust! Raw, naked violence!' The opening section saw Hawaiian style wallpaper patterns worn with leopard print - accessorised with black leather caps and black neck ties. Jackets and knitwear were shrugged off shoulders in teenage styling. The runway can traditionally be such a rigorous and arguably outdated affair, that it makes sense to have merchandise positioned on the body so it looks lived in. Characterisation and narrative feels a touch stagey if articulated via just clothes, so such a device helps a collection so densely packed with product feel a bit more nonchalant. However, as the collection progressed, it looked a touch contrived. Tulle fishtail skirts were debuted within the collection pretty early on in the mix. A hangover from their last collection, this 'Glunge' idea of an aristocratic world of gowns crashing with leather jackets and sweaters is still going strong – but this season rather than go with a new concept, they've ramped it up.
This is DSquared2 though, land of the sexy secretary, the lumberjack and the boy scout. Everyone loves a DSquared2 archetype, so it would it be really nice to see just one developed again, with both a male and female wardrobe in mind. It would help things feel more streamlined and hopefully just as exciting. Scout uniforms and badges were present on safari jackets and shirts - and also worn under tutu dresses. It was great to see one of their archetypes return. It was just one section though, within an entire collection of many other things. When we caught sight of the boy scout, it felt as if the waves of clothes had parted and suddenly we saw the designers pop out. A sandy, oversized parka also looked seriously simple and commercially hard hitting amongst a collection largely dedicated to eclecticism. Maybe the time isn’t right anymore for a theme. There is a classicism to DSquared. They are very much loved.