There has been a resurgence of logos as of late: designers have collaborated with sportswear brands using their iconography to lure customers; brands that previously shied away from logos - Burberry for example - are now embellishing every pocket and sleeve. Fendi, in particular, has really grappled with the revitalising of the logo and the past two seasons have seen it smattered on just about everything. Logomania is still very much alive and rather cleverly, for S/S 19, Silvia Venturini chose 'punk' artist Nico Vascellari to further the power of the Fendi F.
This collection saw Vascellari adapt the typical Fendi logo with free abandon, turning it into a more rounded and bubble-like shape. This was paired throughout the collection with the squarer historical logo we know and love; Cuban style shirts and bomber jackers with Vascellari’s version were paired with trim trouser with the traditional icon. This duality of known and unexpected was the bloodline of the collection. Roma became Amor, Fendi became Fiend. 'Nico is part of the family. When he performs he becomes like a demon, but when he is with his children, he is the most tender person. So I was really fascinated by him, as an artist and as a person,' said Venturini.
Mesh jackets allowed stripes or logo on shirts beneath to shine through; checks were paired with singular stripes in the typical Fendi beiges and browns, and big slouched leather bags had opposing straps or handles. This was all about contrast, the flip reverse, the switch it up. Roll the die and see whether you land on a bucket hat, a shiny strapped sandal or that marvellous striped suit.
The play of dark and light was most prevalent in the short-shorts and skorts. Shorts in muted tones and skorts with apron fronts are the items the devil on your shoulder tells you to buy. Be cheeky, be brave. 'It’s a little bit like mini-skirts were in the sixties for women,' said Venturini. 'I think it’s time to liberate.' A similar statement was heard from Mrs. Prada on her short-shorts yesterday. Both, it seems, are doing away with typical menswear codes.
As a rousing choral version of New Order’s Blue Monday played for the finale, one felt an atmosphere of rebellion. Be daring, be a demon, be the joker, be the king. Whatever side of the coin you land, Fendi has you covered.
