Simon Porte Jacquemus has garnered great success and celebrity-level fame over the past two seasons with his collections’ undeniable sex appeal and accessories. His dinky mini handbags have quickly become a firm favourite with bloggers, Instagrammers and even the likes of Rihanna, whilst his chic and sensual silhouettes have been met with fanfare on many occasion.
This season, it seemed that Jacquemus had put the elements that make his shows so popular on a pedestal, blowing them up tenfold. Mini bags - that had previously garnered wild media attention - were almost microscopic, some crossed over the shoulder, some with fringing and some so tiny they looked as if portable pill-boxes - perfect Instagram fodder and no doubt the next accessory craze. Other bags had been made gargantuan and were much like Jacquemus’ previous sun hats - dramatic and oversized. The crowds had virtually doubled since last season, the aforementioned bloggers and celebrities were out in full force - perhaps one of the reasons Jacquemus keeps updating and wheeling out his most attention-grabbing ideas.
A Jacquemus show is often a celebration of the woman, with dresses form-fitting, curving to the body’s natural shape. This season, with wonderful casting, dresses were skimming the buttocks short, scoop necks were taken nearly to the midriff to show bikini and asymmetric flowing dresses were sheer to reveal nipple and VPL - the cool mint and navy looks were some of the best. This was explicit sex appeal. Where previous seasons had felt a bit sixties St Tropez in their subtle sexuality, this was open chested, short-short, low-back, all bearing; perhaps in part to Jacquemus’ Italian Riviera fantasy as inspiration this season. ‘I want to say something about the Mediterranean girl: last year was the Souk, this time is more Italian,’ said Jacquemus post-show. The Italian influence had infiltrated the shoes too, another household staple and one of Jacquemus’ favourite aspects, these were sculptural plexiglass, with miniature J’s hanging from within the heel. ‘Shoes are my passion, I was obsessed by some objects from Italy, some sculptures, some Murano vases.’ added Jacquemus. There was a real joy at the finale as models danced and whooped with confidence, but ultimately this collection had lost an element of elegance in place of fun and frivolity.
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